Sunday, May 11, 2014

Purple lace top

Considering the name of my blog -Purple Pleats- it is only appropriate that the first featured garment is purple. And it has a pleat!

This was my first try at a pattern from the German magazine Sabrina Woman, issue 1/2014. I wanted to try out something pretty basic at first, to see how the overall fit of the patterns seem to be. Pattern number 7 is a basic raglan sleeve top, so I figured that the only potential problems would be with the raglan seams. My upper body is apparently a bit on the small side, so I often have issues with the fit of the shoulder seam and arm scythe.

I traced the pattern on silk paper and pinned it on my beloved mannequin. I made her myself in school and she was literally made on top of me (apparently it is called a Duct Tape Double or DTD). It was a pain in the butt I can tell you, but worth every second of it. Anyway, the top seemed to fit without any alterations.

The fabric is a (cheap) stretchy polyester lace from Eurokangas. I chose to finish the neckline and the sleeve ends with satin bias tape. It is not my favorite look, but it seemed to be the best choice. I would rather have used a cotton bias tape, but they didn't have any in a matching color. 

For the seams I used my serger and the narrowest seam possible. Thank heavens for the differential feed, the seams would have turned out all wobbly without it. The seams still needed a good ironing to straighten them out. I chose to finish the hem with a rolled hem.

The slit in the front turned out to be a pain in the butt, as I expected. To get it right you would need to use only a minimal seam allowance at the bottom of the slit, but I didn't want to do that with such a sheer lace fabric. I was worried that it would tear. Instead I added a pleat in order to control the excess fabric. It was not fun trying to pin down an impossibly slippery fabric full of holes. I don't even want to tell you how long it took me to get an at least acceptable-looking pleat... and it's still not perfect. 

When the top was finished I noticed that the seams in the armpit were beginning to unravel, so I reinforced the seam with a narrow zigzag.

All in all I am pleased with this lace top. I have actually worn it more than once already! If I will make another one (which I actually might), I'll probably make the neckline a bit narrower. Just a matter of preference. 

PS. As you might have noticed, English is not my native language. Actually it is Swedish. This blog post took a lot of Finnish-English-Sewing Dictionary-Googling, so forgive me if I messed up the terminology. I will get better at it, promise!

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